Country dossier Tibet

1. FACTFILE

Capital: Lhasa
Official Language: Tibetan (various dialects) and Putonghua (Mandarin)
Religions: Tibetan Buddhism. It is very difficult to estimate the number of adherents to this religion
Voltage: 220 Volts. Sockets come in at least four designs – three pronged angled pins (as in Australia), three pronged round pins (as in Hong Kong), two flat pins (American style but without the earth wire) or two narrow round pins (European style). Conversion plugs are worth bringing along.
Population: 2,7 million.
Time Zone: 8 hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (+8 GMT). Daylight Saving Time is not observed.
Telephone Codes: 86

2. PREPARING TO GO

Visas
For China - Tibet, we arrange these for you as part of the service for all tours including the fixed departures, but we begin the paperwork one month before the tour, so send us your details early.
We need a copy of the details page of your passport. Most convenient is a scan saved as a JPEG file of around 100kb size. If you book less than one month in advance there is an additional $25 fee.
For Tibet tours starting in China: Two separate visas are required by all nationalities travelling from China to Tibet: A Tibetan group tourist visa, which is organised by our agents upon your arrival in China (and is included in your tour cost); and a China tourist visa, which you will need to purchase in advance. Note: It is extremely important to avoid stating on your application for a China visa that it is your intention to visit Tibet even if it is included on your itinerary.
Please always consult us about visas for China and Tibet as this a difficult process to go through.

Travel permits
We arrange all travel and trekking permits in Tibet once we have received you passport details.

Money matters

Local Currency
The monetary unit in Tibet is the same as in China: the Renminbi (Rmb), literally people’s money’, also known as the Yuan (¥). 1 Yuan can be divided into 10 Jiao or 100 Fen. As two different series of notes are in circulation an unfamiliar note is not necessarily counterfeit (although please see the note below). Approximate
exchange rates (as at March 2007) are as follows:

1 Pound Sterling = 15.22 ¥-
1 US Dollar =7.74 ¥
1 Euro =10.35 ¥
At present there are no restrictions on the amount of foreign currency that a visitor may bring into Tibet however sums over US$5,000 should be declared on arrival.

Warning: Counterfeit notes are becoming more common in Tibet. Although the print quality is very good they can usually be detected by the lack of a watermark or poor quality of paper used (counterfeits tend to be smoother than real notes).

Changing Money, Credit Cards & ATM's
There is a set exchange rate in Tibet, determined by the Bank of China, the only bank authorised to deal in foreign exchange. Tourist class hotels are often also authorised to exchange foreign currency, but will usually only exchange cash for those staying in the hotel. Cash and traveller's cheques can be easily changed at the Bank of China in Lhasa and oddly the latter attract a better rate than cash. Although there are ATMs in
Lhasa, these facilities are very unreliable. Do not rely on a debit or credit card as a source of funds whilst in Tibet. Credit cards are accepted in very few shops and not generally in the restaurants we frequent.

A Word of Advice
Take along a little bit more money than you think you will actually need, just in case – you don’t have to spend it! Remember, few insurance policies will provide you with instant cash in an emergency and you cannot count on borrowing money from fellow travellers.

Working out your Budget
Here is some general information about the things you will need to consider when budgeting for your holiday.

Entrance Fees
All our tours to Tibet include entrance to all the major sights mentioned in the trip dossier. However if you wish to visit lesser known sites in Lhasa the entrance fee will usually cost US$1-2.

Optional Excursions & Activities
All of our itineraries include some free time for optional activities. While these are sometimes difficult to organise for individuals in Tibet, due to restrictions placed on travel by the Government, our local staff in Lhasa will be able to advise you of the possibilities available.

Meals
Your trip itinerary will clearly indicate which meals are included in the tour price. Breakfast is provided each day when staying in Hotels, while lunch and dinner is not included while staying in Hotels to give you more freedom.
Approximate costs for meals and snacks not included are shown below:
Simple snack US$1
Light meal US$2-5
Full dinner US$4-7
(For a guide to the type of food you will find in Tibet see the general information section of this dossier.)

Drinks
All drinks (i.e. bottled water, soft drinks) are at your own expense. Approximate costs for drinks bought in a shop or local restaurant are shown below.
750ml of water US$0.5
Can of soft drink US$0.5-1
630ml bottle of beer US$0.5-1
Note: You should drink plenty of water in high altitude but you should not drink the local tap water in Tibet. Bottled water, carbonated soft drinks and fruit juices are widely available throughout the region.

Local Transport
Taxis are the most effective method of local transport within Tibetan cities. Whilst most taxis do have meters it is a good idea to find out, from our local staff or the hotel receptionist, approximately how much you should expect to pay for your proposed journey.

What to Take
You will receive a more comprehensive gear discussion once you have booked your tour which contains a comprehensive list of items that you should consider bringing with you. There are also certain items of specific equipment (e.g. sleeping bags, down jackets, walking boots and towels) that you will need on some tours and not on others. So please check with us once you have booked for the details of these special items.

Clothing
As a general guideline, clothing should be lightweight, loose fitting, hard-wearing and easily washed. At midday in Tibet’s summer months, cotton clothing is much more comfortable than man-made materials like nylon. Be prepared for cooler evenings and early morning starts - for this reason you will generally find it better to pack several thin layers rather than one thick layer. A fleece can be invaluable and double as a pillow. Comfortable walking or hiking shoes that you have already worn in are also a good idea.
There are no severe restrictions on dress in Tibet, but the local population tend to dress conservatively. In remote rural areas or holy sites women may attract attention and feel a little out of place with bare shoulders and shorts or short skirts.

Trekking clothing
Trekking in Tibet requires a good selection of clothing; the nights are very cold while in the day you will be warm. So come prepared with down gear, thermal underwear, gloves, woollen or fleece hat and waterproofs. Whenever and wherever you trek it is vitally important that you make sure your feet are comfortable.
For all treks, (well worn in) hiking boots and lots of cotton or woollen socks are essential.

* Down jackets can be hired in Kathmandu at the start of the tour but you should note that although these are of good quality, they are not washed often (frequent washing means that they become less warm).

Other useful equipment
There are some items which we highly recommend you bring on any hiking or trekking trip. A torch (and spare batteries), spare boot laces, water bottle and strap/holder, sun block and lip balm can be invaluable. An emergency first aid kit is carried by the guide during the trek; however we recommend you bring personal medical supplies, including rehydration salts, a blister kit, supply of plasters, aspirins, sunscreen, necessary medicines, etc.

Luggage & load limits
If your tour includes a trek, your luggage will be carried by yaks. Therefore it is important to bring durable soft luggage or a back pack which does not weigh more than 15kg. You may also want to bring a waterproof pack cover or line your pack with a bin bag to protect against water/dust. Please note it is possible to store excess luggage in the hotels you will use in Kathmandu.

Prepare Yourself
Most of our treks can be considered manageable even for those who have not trekked before. You don’t have to be young or super-fit, and age in itself is no barrier. However on any trek, even those graded "Easy", have some steep ascents and descents so you do require a reasonable level of fitness. The more physically fit you are, the more easily your body will adapt to hiking in the Himalayas. It also goes without saying that you should be pretty certain you will enjoy a walking holiday before you even consider trekking in Tibet.
It’s in your interest to devote some time developing your fitness prior to travel.
We highly recommend that you develop a fitness plan (in conjunction with your doctor if necessary). Getting started is the hardest part, so you might want begin slowly with brisk daily walks or jogging. For any trek you should build up your routine until you can easily enjoy a good 4-hr hike up and down hills at the weekends. This is also a good time to break in your hiking boots! Nothing ruins a trek more than blisters from new boots. Consult your doctor if in any doubt about your ability to complete your chosen trek and show him/her our Trip Dossier and this dossier.
You will be able to walk at your own pace, so if you are confident you can complete the trek you need not be concerned about “holding up the group” or “racing ahead”. Most people in good health who have prepared physically will have no problem in enjoying themselves. Before making your choice, things to consider are the duration of your trip, its grading, style of accommodation and maximum and average altitude.

3. CULTURAL & ENVIRONMENTAL GUIDELINES

 The Environment

Toilets
If you need to answer the call of nature whilst on a hike or break in a bus journey please burn your toilet paper – do not bury it. If it is not possible to burn it, take it back to a rubbish bin so that it can be disposed of appropriately.
Whenever you use a western or squat style toilet please place your toilet paper in the rubbish bin provided – DO NOT flush it down the toilet as this may block the sewerage system. You may also want to carry your own toilet paper or tissues as not all toilets (and no public toilets) will supply it.

Litter
While trekking it is particularly important to take all rubbish and non-biodegradable items with you when you leave camp sites. Try to leave camp sites even cleaner than you found them! Many locals think nothing of throwing their rubbish on the floor. This is a habit that stems from the days when there were no litterbins, and the government employed people to continually sweep the streets. However the Chinese government is now trying to persuade people to use litterbins. As a visitor, you should respect this and hold on to your waste until you find a litterbin or somewhere appropriate to dispose of it.

Photography
Photographing mountain landscapes is one thing, photographing people quite another, especially if those people are foreign and poor. Don't just stop, click the shutter and walk off, try and have some sort of personal contact with the person you wish to photograph and ask their permission first. Usually Tibetan people respond warmly to smiles and friendly attitudes. Please be tactful, unobtrusive and respectful and sensitive to the feelings and dignity of the person being photographed. It may be possible for us to arrange for copies of the photo's you take to be sent to villages with future treks, but it is better not to make false promises to do this as it will only cause disappointment and create future resentment.

Etiquette & Customs
There are many simple rules of etiquette in Tibet, please see the “do’s and don’ts” in the general information on Tibet on our website.

Begging
Begging is not very common in Tibet but has started to appear at some tourist destinations and around some holy sites. Ultimately donations are a traveller's personal choice, however our recommendation is NOT to give money, pens, gifts or sweets as this encourages a begging mentality and is largely ineffectual. If you do want to help it is probably better to give to a recognised charity. If you choose not to give, simply say no with a smile and keep on walking. If you learn nothing else of the local language, try to learn to say ‘no thank you’.

Haggling
In many shops prices are not negotiable; however, bargaining is expected for tourist souvenirs. The shop keeper or market trader will start with a high price which you are then expected to bargain down until you reach a fair price (you should always try to bargain in Yuan rather than dollars). Don't be surprised if your purchase price is as little as one tenth of the asking price! Bargaining should always be relaxed and can be a lot of fun but you should remember that if you agree a price then you are expected to follow through with the purchase.

4. ON TOUR

Safety
Most people find that Tibet is a very friendly and hospitable region and feel quite comfortable wandering around alone during the day. However, as with any area you are not familiar with, it is recommended that you exercise more caution at night. Pickpockets and other opportunists operate around some tourist sites.

A typical day on trek
Shortly after first light (around 7 a.m. as the sun gets up very late in Tibet) one of the cook crew will wake you with a cup of tea or coffee brought to your tent. You will have plenty of time to get up and pack your kitbag before sitting down to a hot breakfast, during which camp will be struck and the yaks loaded. Setting off in the pleasant cool of the morning, we will generally reach our lunch stop by 12 a.m. The cook crew, having overtaken us on the trail, will already have the lunch preparations well under way. Lunch on most days is a cooked meal. This usually takes an hour or even two and this is a great time for relaxing, reading and sitting in the sun. Yaks usually catch up with the group during lunch and are well on their way to camp which we hope to establish by 4 or 5 p.m., well before dusk. It is usual for the afternoon’s walk to be shorter than the morning session. During the day you are free to walk at your own pace and to take as many photographs as you wish. Dinner is ready at around 7 p.m. and is a 3-course meal served in the dining tent. This is a great time of day for reliving the events of the trek so far and for general socialising. After
dark, the temperature quickly falls and everyone will soon be tucked up in their sleeping bags.

Introduction to your trek team.

Sirdar
The Sirdar is usually a Sherpa, and is an experienced and competent trek manager. He/she is responsible for trek logistics, your wellbeing, providing advice and information, can be a go-between in interaction with local people you meet along the way and will generally oversee your adventures. What you may not see is that they are also responsible for all the logistical organisation, including staff management, the hire of porters, the fair distribution of porter loads and calculates our changing porter needs as the trek progresses. The success of any trek depends to a large extent on the personality and diplomacy of the Sirdar, who also acts as trek treasurer, paying salaries and buying provisions along the trail.

Sherpas
They assist the Sirdar in all tasks. They are responsible for ensuring camp security and will watch tents at night. They look after your safety along the trail, put up and take down tents, and generally look after your every need and comfort. Sherpas are not porters and do not carry loads but if you are ill or very tired, especially at high altitude, they will carry your day pack for you. Like the Sirdar, the Sherpas generally speak some English so do chat to them and learn some Nepali, or even Sherpa!

Cook and Kitchen staff
The trek cook will have been trained up over the years in hygienic techniques of food preparation and a wide variety of dishes catering to western tastes, using both fresh and dehydrated ingredients. As a trekker is depended on his stomach for energy on treks, the cook is an essential part of the team! He is helped by several kitchen boys who wash dishes and fetch water and serves meals to you, etc. The kitchen staff work extremely hard, starting early in the morning to bring you bed tea, washing water, followed by a substantial breakfast. They leave camp after you and, carry the cooking equipment and food for the lunch stop, they hurry to overtake us and set up lunch for when we arrive. Again they leave the lunch stop after us, overtake us again and are cooking dinner by the time we arrive. If you are happy with your food please let the cook know. The cook will be pleased to serve you typical Nepali and Tibetan food - daal bhaat tarkaari; rice, lentils and spiced vegetables, or the famed Tibetan momos.

Altitude & Acclimatisation
It is common in the Himalayas to trek above 4,500m and sometimes 5,500m. There is no need to worry unduly about altitude, but above 3,000m air becomes thinner and your performance may be affected. No one understands why some people are affected and others not. Being young, strong and fit is no guarantee of success. The only way to acclimatise is to ascend slowly. Our routes have been carefully designed based on years of experience managing possible altitude related difficulties. The average and maximum altitude reached on each of our treks can be found on your Trip Dossier. Be aware that altitude sickness can be fatal, so if your Sirdar advises you to stay at a certain altitude or descend, please do as instructed. He/she has the experience and is there to ensure your safety. If you do need to descend you will be accompanied by one of our team and a porter and will be well looked after. The descent may be just a short-term measure and does not necessarily mean you will be unable to complete your ascent. There is no shame in being affected or not reaching the highest point on a trek.

Timekeeping
It is worth remembering that Tibet’s relaxed attitudes to time and efficiency ensure that treks do not always function like clockwork, so please don’t expect them to! Keep your sense of humour handy and be patient should things not go as planned. Tibetan people are used to waiting and are often amused at the impatience of the tourist.

Accommodation
Our main criterion for choosing hotels is cleanliness. Please bear in mind that hotels can sometimes suffer from minor problems and technical difficulties.
If you are travelling alone you will be allocated a room with another group member of the same gender*. If you are travelling as a couple please note that we cannot guarantee the availability of double beds.

*Note: Single supplements are not available on Adventurer tours.

Laundry
An inexpensive laundry service is available in most of the hotels we use (especially in cities and sizable towns).

Local Food & Drink

Food
The Tibetan diet tends to be pretty basic, consisting mainly of tsampa (roasted barley flour) and yak meat. More interesting are momos (small dumplings filled with meat, vegetables or yak cheese) and thugpa (meat or vegetable noodle soup). Lhasa has an eclectic population and in recent years its restaurants have started to offer a great range of delicious dishes. Tibetan, Chinese, Indian, Nepali, Muslim and Western meals are now all available.

Drinks
Most meals tend to be washed down with either chang (local barley beer) or endless bowls of yak butter tea (worth trying at least once for the experience!). A tastier alternative to butter tea is the sweet milk tea. Tibet does produce a few surprisingly good lager type beers, as well as importing beers from China (however we do not encourage drinking of alcohol due to the altitude). Traditional Chinese rice wines are also available, but tend to be extremely alcoholic and not generally rated highly by travellers.

Special Dietary Requirements

Vegetarians
Vegetarians need not be apprehensive about travelling in Tibet; a non-meat alternative is always possible. However, vegetarianism is not something Tibetan people are particularly familiar with. In more remote places, dishes may be more limited in variety. There are quite a few Indian and Nepali chefs in Lhasa who cook up great vegetarian dishes.

Food Allergies
If you have food allergies or preferences, please make them known to us before you arrive and we will do our best to ensure that your requirements are met.

Nut Allergies – Important Note; People with nut allergies should be aware that a lot of food is cooked in nut oil and avoiding this will be particularly difficult. The choice of dishes may be incredibly restricted and it would be extremely hard to guarantee complete nut avoidance.

Please note: Unfortunately we can give no guarantee that special requirements can always be met.

Communications

Email
Several Internet cafes can now be found in Lhasa. The cost for an hour is usually US$0.5-1. A few internet cafes can also be found in Gyantse and Shigatse but the are usually a little more expensive there.

Phone
The Tibetan phone system is reliable, and the mobile network surprisingly comprehensive. A 3-minute call (to the UK) will cost approx. US$2 from a telephone centre or with a pre paid phonecard which you can buy from shops, hotels and kiosks.

Post
The postal service is good and stamps are available everywhere. An overseas stamp for a postcard will cost approx. US$0.7.

Availability of Film
Camera film can be found almost everywhere. Fast film (ASA 200+), slide film and APS may be harder to find and it is best to bring a supply from home. Remember, fast film will allow you to take photos even when flash photography is not permitted.

5. GENERAL INFORMATION

Weather
Tibet experiences extremes in weather, but the climate is not as harsh as many people imagine. Even so, weather conditions may vary considerably during your tour and even more so during a trek.
Lhasa is generally mild from May through October and overall, spring and autumn are considered the best seasons to travel. Due to the altitude the sun can be quite harsh during the day in summer however temperatures can fall considerably at night. July and August also see the highest rainfall in most parts of the country which makes for a much greener environment and the possibility of roads being washed away.
The following chart shows minimum and maximum daytime temperatures for Lhasa (in degrees Celsius);
  Jan  Feb  Mar Apr  May Jun
-9/9 -5/9 -2/13 2/17 7/22 10/24
   Jul    Aug   Sep  Oct   Nov Dec
10/23 10/21 9/21 2/17 -4/11 -9/6

Holidays

National Holidays
Secular public holidays, when banks and government offices are closed, are few and many shops remain open even on these days. The following are official Chinese holidays:
New Year’s Day* 1 Jan
Women’s Day 8 Mar
Labour Day 1 May
Youth Day 4 May
Children’s Day 1 Jun
Communist Party Day 1 Jul
National Army Day 1 Aug
National Day* 1 Oct
(*Banks closed)

Festivals & Events
(Based on the Tibetan Lunar Calendar)
Losar (New Year) Feb/Mar
Monlam (Great Prayer
Festival) Feb/Mar
Saga Dawa (Buddha’s birth,
death and enlightenment) May/Jun
World Incense Day Jun/Jul
Various Horse Festivals Jul/Sep
Zhoton (Yoghurt Festival) Aug

Please see more information on festivals in the general information on Tibet section of our website.

Useful Phrases in Tibetan
Tibetan and Mandarin Chinese are the two official languages of Tibet. Unlike Mandarin there is, as yet, still no common Romanisation system for Tibetan. The following words and phrases are spelled phonetically to help you with pronunciation.
Hello - tashi dele
Goodbye (leaving) - kale shoo
Goodbye (staying) - kale phe
Do you speak English? - injeeke shing
gi yo pe?
Thank you - thoo jaychay
Yes, OK - la ong
Sorry - gonda
What’s your name? - kerang gi ming
la karey zer gi yo
How much? - Ka tso ray?
It’s expensive - gong chenpo ray
I don't understand - ha ko ma song

Tibetan Numbers
0 ling
1 chik
2 nyi
3 sum
4 shi
5 nga
6 troo
7 dun
8 gye
9 gu
10 chu
20 nyi shu
30 sum shu
100 chik gya
1000 chik tong